The Cranky Blog

Camino Inca

The highlight of Peru was going to Cusco, the Sacred Valley and doing the Inca trail, finishing at Machu Picchu. I was very nervous about it because climbing at altitude is no joke – your lungs feel like they are going to explode. The Inca trail is 45 km with 40 km of it done over 3 days, with the lowest elevation at 2,700 m. The first day is lovely, 11km, mostly flat with only a bit of climbing. The second day is 12km and mainly uphill which was very tough in spots – there are loads of steps.  Getting one foot in front of the other was an achievement.  We climbed to 4,215m then descended. And the descent is hard! A lot of steps so you really have to be careful. But I made it.  

    
 The third day is 16km and mostly downhill. I was fine till lunch and then my legs just went to jelly for the last 3 hours/4km downhill. I didn’t trust them at all! But I made it to camp and a good nights sleep (sort of). Actually the camping wasn’t too bad at all – there are porters who carry everything and have your tent set up and food ready before you get there. They are amazing.
On the last day you get up at 3.30am and get on the Trail at 5.30 am to walk to Machu Picchu. It’s a beautiful walk, not too hilly. The only thing that spoilt it was the incessant talking of some of the walking group, Canadians. One guy in particular talked the whole time, at the top of his voice, about himself. He actually was the most testing person I met on my travels! And his companions weren’t much better – they vocalised every thought that came into their heads and could not be silent. They were unbelievable. Doing a walk like that is like a pilgrimage, but some people don’t seem to be able to be quiet and reflect. My impression of Canadians has not been enhanced by that trip – the Americans I met were much better!  This is me wrecked after the climb to the peak. 

    
    
 Anyway, I got away from the gabbers and finally reached the Sun Gate, which is the first glimpse you get of Machu Picchu after the long walk, and it was fantastic. It’s another bit of a downhill walk to MP but I was on a bit of a high actually and some of my group were there to welcome me after the walk, so it was really amazing. Machu Picchu is fantastic and is in a beautiful spot – the Inca chose it partly for it’s astronomical value. On the 2nd May each year the river totally aligns with the shape of the Milky Way. That would be a cool sight to behold. They worshipped the elements and some animals and built a beautiful Temple of the Sun with windows that aligned with the summer and winter solstices. They knew then when to sow and harvest. They were mainly farmers, growing potatoes and corn and quinoa. There are over 3,000 types of potatoes in Peru – I thought the Irish were the king of the spud!  

    
   

I was nervous about doing the trek, but I am so glad I did it and feel quite proud of myself. Was worried I might not be able for it but I am hardy enough at this stage and got by without any dramas or stomach bugs! The thought of all the calories I had to be burning motivated me when times got tough. And not washing for four days is kind of liberating.

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